‘54 Wagon Lower Cab Corner Replacement

jw1954wagon

Bigger Hammer
Jan 14, 2024
105
GA
First Name
James
Willys Model
  1. Wagon
Willys Year:
  1. 1954
Looking at changing out these old rusted front lower cab corners in the future. Does anyone know if this can be done with the body on frame without too much headache? I didnt plan on doing a frame off.

Thanks for any feedback!
 
Probably right around 2000 I did mine and made a bunch of mistakes and learned as I went and probably have to redo these.

First I tried to get a shop to do these, and even back then no one would touch the project, they only worked on newer repairs. I get that and still understand that approach for shops. So was not for lack of trying to farm it out, I was hoping they could do some of the work I was unable to do 100%, no go there.

Well I got my parts from Walcks back then, drove out and picked them up.

My idea was they had made these they are the expert and I should just install what they made, well that was mistake #1, I really should have only replaced the parts that were bad. I cut out the entire part and welded it in, I'm sure I wasted alot of good original metal back then doing it that way.

So on the other side I did just that, trimmed down the panel to fit a precise area to save on rework. I was never super happy with the work I did.

Issues I ran into with the original patch panels was they were too short width wise, and also the bump out was just a random piece of 1/4 thick steel and I always disliked that.

Years later they now make full panels that go from the seam to the corner. Back then I would have done that if available. Not sure on the width issue, 25 years later. But I still see that welded piece of 1/4" plate on the repop parts.

Now a days I tend to think removing the entire corner at the spot welds and taking the piece to the bench to rework might be the best approach.

My feeling is they can be done on the rig if you pulled apart enough stuff.
 
Thanks for that story. I see what you mean. I'm just taking it one step at a time. I really need a new fender or some repair pieces for the passenger side as I just cleaned it up. Haven't seen much on repop for fenders yet?
 
No never seen fenders repop.

@Harveydavidson is in GA, might know of something/someone has on hand.

Is it the whole fender or just part that's needed?
 
is this the stuff you are looking for? I did the cowl patch on the passenger side of my Jeepster. Didn't have to remove the body to do it.

 
is this the stuff you are looking for? I did the cowl patch on the passenger side of my Jeepster. Didn't have to remove the body to do it.

Yes, that's it! Did you change rocker panel too, and if so which one first?
 
Yes, that's it! Did you change rocker panel too, and if so which one first?
I did not do the rocker panel. Just the lower front cowl. Of course a Jeepster is a little bit different. I did have to do some other panel repairs though.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1149 (2).jpg
    IMG_1149 (2).jpg
    34 KB · Views: 6
Depending on how much needs to be repaired,there was an option I used

IMG_20230809_123336531_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230809_123407441.jpg
IMG_20230809_124600074_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230809_124714730_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230806_121925306.jpg


Obviously I am working body off, but think this could be done body on. I used single panel 18ga, folded over top edge 90deg ( there is an inside body brace/cross plate on the inside of the cowl, the top of my replacement plate fits up against that cross brace ). The bottom was cut longer length to allow for needed bottom plate bend up. Excess length rolled up to form the bottom plate curve, ( was able to template the curve arc and scribe/ cut panel.) I placed the panel up the inside, leaving all the original metal in place ( I am retaining the " vehicle patina as much as possible ). Confirmed the curve radius, pulled out and welded the plate curve.
There was sufficient original metal inside along bottom in place along the bottom curve to provide solid weld connection- that was important, had to be there for weld connect, but it's multi plated original construction there, so odds are it's there. I also spread panel adhesive between the old/new panel, slid it up inside and then and put a spreader bar to put pressure on plates. Was gonna drill the to plate and bolt it to the inside cross brace, but was able to use self tapping screws as I recall. Will also have a bolted on gas can carrier on that panel, so more securement of the new inset panel. I was also able to tap weld along the bottom rusted original panel, grind, light body filler, and then some rusted red and green spray paint to " patina it.
IMG_20240505_171658177.jpg
Original outer panel wall with slight weld /body filler along bottom. The two bolts on side were to a tool box originally mounted, will replace it or put gas can mount there

IMG_20240505_171720598.jpg
The passenger side done the same, but also put in the inside panel on just to strengthen it - had slightly more rust deterioration.
You can see that I also left the " rough metal" finish. But, thinking you could cut out any bad metal and tack in the new formed cowl, just as would be required if you purchased the formed cowl. Either way, made or purchased, you gotta cut to fit, ( also, need to place the holes and nuts for fender runner ). Hope this helps.

Oops, Looks like this should be moved to garage
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230809_123325439.jpg
    IMG_20230809_123325439.jpg
    142.5 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20230809_123407441.jpg
    IMG_20230809_123407441.jpg
    160.3 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
Man! What I was looking for....great pics! Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking about getting the repair piece from Kaiser. Both sides are rotten on mine..I'm shortening the fenders to allow for step rails...a different look.1000003161.jpg1000003161.jpg
 
Man! What I was looking for....great pics! Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking about getting the repair piece from Kaiser. Both sides are rotten on mine..I'm shortening the fenders to allow for step rails...a different look.View attachment 163934View attachment 163934
Had to fixx the rust on this drivers side, then boxed it in right about where the front door stops....step rail will butt up close to it
 
Back
Top