Gaskets for Warn M2 hubs

[Winston]

Does anyone know of a source for the hub gaskets, for Warns M2 hubs. Can get them from the Scout supply place, but they want $8 a piece. Kind of highway robbery, for a .20 cent gasket. Anyone know of another source for them?

Winston

 

[banman]

For things like that my gaskets look like this:

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...nts/permatex-super-300-form-a-gasket-sealant/

The only time I'm cautious about not using a solid gasket is when I know the oem gasket had thickness to it like the ol' rubberized cork gasket material -- ask yourself -- does that gasket also act as a spacer or shim...?


Permatex makes MANY flavors of form-a-gasket. Decide what's gonna work well for most of what you do and see what's locally available although amazon.com has redefined "locally available"...

 

[indian john]

The m2 gaskets are rice paper thin. I use permeatex too.


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[banman]

The m2 gaskets are rice paper thin. I use permatex too.


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Exactly.
and then I see most folks put a smear of sumthin' on the rice paper to hold it in place...


The original reason (I presume) for the paper gasket is because you've got an aluminum part being bolted to a steel part -- dissimilar metal corrosion --which I care about deeply with aircraft...

In this application -- the risk is low -- you clean and disassemble these parts every couple thousand miles or LESS (in rough service/water immersion) in normal service. And in this application the permatex is a better solution.

Be sure and coat the threads of the bolts as well.

 

[diggerG]

Call Crown and ask them. They list the gaskets as a separate part.
The problem is shipping. Nobody is going to sell you $1.00 worth of anything and ship it for peanuts.
How about get some paper and make the gaskets?
diggerG

 

[Pete]

I order my Warn M2 hub seals from Six States Distributors in Portland Oregon. Can't remember now how much I paid for them.

Pete

 

[Winston]

Ordered the gaskets from Six State Distributors in Oregon. They were I think .90 cents each. Waiting on the stainless crush washers from Walck's, then will get them on. While waiting...have been playing with the motor to fine tune. Is running well, but seems to have a slight tick in the motor. Going to get a new set of plug wires and see if that makes a difference, as the ones I have I think are the originals. Anyone have any thoughts of what might make the motor have a slight tick to it? Cranks right up, and runs good, just about ever 2-3 seconds, has a slight tick?

Winston

 

[captainlance]

A tick in the engine is usually a valve misadjusted. Easy to fix, a feeler gauge, 2 1/2 inch wrenches, and a few minutes will do it.

Ordered the gaskets from Six State Distributors in Oregon. They were I think .90 cents each. Waiting on the stainless crush washers from Walck's, then will get them on. While waiting...have been playing with the motor to fine tune. Is running well, but seems to have a slight tick in the motor. Going to get a new set of plug wires and see if that makes a difference, as the ones I have I think are the originals. Anyone have any thoughts of what might make the motor have a slight tick to it? Cranks right up, and runs good, just about ever 2-3 seconds, has a slight tick?

Winston

 

[Winston]

Thanks Lance...going by to pickup some new plug wires today, and going to take the truck to a mechanic friend who works on classic cars and trucks. I think your right on your diagnosis, as that is what I figured, as have replaced all new parts, and electronic ignition. Will get back to you and let you know the results. Thanks so much....

Winston

 

[mickeykelley]

I order my Warn M2 hub seals from Six States Distributors in Portland Oregon. Can't remember now how much I paid for them.

Pete

I've read about the O ring that seals the knob is something one has to be careful when taking them apart. Any ideas on a source for those before I start to pull apart my set to go through?

 

[Winston]

Mickey....not sure yet, but have seen many post on here that they are hard to find, but will see if can find them and let you know, as I need them also.

Winston

 

[Pete]

I've read about the O ring that seals the knob is something one has to be careful when taking them apart. Any ideas on a source for those before I start to pull apart my set to go through?

I don’t remember the orings... if they are in there I didn’t replace them.

Pete

 

[diggerG]

There is a guy who sells Scout Warn hub repair kits. His kits have the big o ring. They are not rubber. At least I think his do. Other kits are a waste of money.
I also believe the later short bolt hubs with the allen caps kits will have those o rings. I think. Next time I rebuild hubs I will need to find them. I ran out last time. You would need to check what the contents are whatever hub kits you buy.
diggerG

 

[Winston]

Ok...need input from the group, as I don't know. Are there several different versions of the M2 hubs? Have found us a source for the O rings/seals, but need to know the exact size and profile of the seals. They have quite an inventory of seals and parts, but need to know exact ones we need. He said, if he doesn't have them in stock, can get them for us on a regular basis, so whenever we need them, can rebuild hubs every year. Can some of you, who know, let me know what the seals size is and profile, and will get some coming. Or will just take mine apart, and send to him to match.

Winston

 

[diggerG]

For this purpose all M2 hubs are the same. I'm not sure if the longer bolt version is also M2 or not, but they hav the same small parts and gaskets. Would you like me to see if I have a junk inner brass turnknob for your supplier to test fit? If I have one I'll just send it to you, or him...
diggerG

 

[mickeykelley]

I think would help a lot of us. I think I remember reading a post somewhere that it's not just a round O ring. Like flat on one side or some strange thing. It is the ring that seal around the brass knob. So the newer Allen bolt versions will not be the same.

 

[mickeykelley]

I don’t remember the orings... if they are in there I didn’t replace them.

Pete

I remember reading that it is what seals around the brass knob. If it's not damaged no need to replace but when I go thru the used ones I got for my CJ, I don't know the condition to start. The ones on the wagon don't seem to show any oil leak but I'd like to have parts on hand when I start.

 

[diggerG]

I think would help a lot of us. I think I remember reading a post somewhere that it's not just a round O ring. Like flat on one side or some strange thing. It is the ring that seal around the brass knob. So the newer Allen bolt versions will not be the same.

Same knob inside a different housing. i think.... but I'll check to be sure.
diggerG

 

[diggerG]

Same knob inside a different housing. i think.... but I'll check to be sure.
diggerG

I just checked my locking hub collection, and I was right and wrong. The 2 different Warn Hubs have similar turn knobs with the same o ring gasket in both. The knobs are the same outside dimension but the inside is different. The o rings are not rubber either. they arer a felt type of ring. both knobs have the o rings sort of in 1 piece.

 

[diggerG]

Well....
Mickey I really hate you. Now that I looked for differences in Warn Hub brass turn knobs, I went to check 1 more thing, model numbers.
Boy didI get into it. In 48 years of Jeeps I never really looked over different Warn hubs. I found casting numbers on the real early deep hubs, different lettering sizes, The actual differences between jeep and IH Warn hubs, Lockomatic hub knobs on regular hubs and more. I think I'll do a post on the actual differences soon. But for now who do you want me to mail the 2 different knobs to for seal id'ing? M2 amd M54 (late 60's - 70's) hubs used the same seal.
diggerG